Stories from Dal

Arif Shafi Wani interacts with the boatmen who recall some interesting encounters with the tourists from the time of their grandfathers

(from greaterkashmir.com)

Symphor, a Britisher visited the valley after 45 years in 1950s and found that his friend Subhan Wangnoo, a houseboat owner with whom he had stayed during his earlier visit had died. He insisted on visiting his grave and on reaching there immediately called a stone carver and engraved on the Subhana’s tombstone “Symphor had come”.

Muhammad Ashraf Wangnoo, grandson of Subhan Wangnoo, narrates the incident sitting on his houseboat while the deep lake below spreads out sombrously in the approaching dusk.

Over the centuries, Dal has attracted people from far and wide. And behind them they have left memories with the boatmen who hosted them on the lake. However, the tourists who have left most impress are the Britishers. In the eighteenth century, the state was favourite haunt of the English tourists. They are credited with introducing houseboats in the valley and modifying these for their own convenience.

Britishers, according to the boat people, taught them ettiquetes of hospitality and importance of discipline. “ They also taught us the value of hardwork, cleanliness and honesty, which are the keys to our success for over a century now” said 115-year old Haji Ghulam Ahmad Budoo of Dal Lake who is still wearing a watch gifted by a British tourist, Kathleen Raymond in 1911.

He proudly shows the dog-eared and moth-eaten visitor’s book which has Raymond’s penned-down remarks for him. “ We found him very willing, obliging and industrious during my stay in his Houseboat while camping in the Lidder valley”, notes the Britisher in the book.

Having been fortunate enough to live through his four generations, Haji spends most of time now in prayers. Pressing his memory hard he recalled some interesting encounters with the tourists in his youth. “ I used to ferry them from Srinagar to Varmul and back on a Doonga (houseboat). They used to maintain good hygiene and even bathed in harsh winter” recalled Haji.

Family members and relatives tease the old man by demanding the silver plated watch, gifted by a “meem Sahib”.

“ I cannot give it to anybody. Bury the watch with me, as it has been an inspiration all my life. Meem Sahib had gifted me the watch when I was a young boy, with the promise that I’ll work hard, be honest and maintain hygiene,” he said.

“ They use to stay in Kashmir for years. They liked the place and the people to the extent that they wished to be buried here if they died here. I remember our customers, Colonel Langoose and Colonel Filmone who died in early nineties were buried in Gulmarg after their death due to illness.” recalled Haji.

The tourists according to the Lake people have contributed a lot to the Valley’s economy and their well-being. “ The Dal people owe a lot to Britishers. It is they who made the Doonga boats into the Houseboats. They made the Houseboat more than a house -introduced the bathroom, dinning hall, and kitchen. They made us morally strong and used to make us work hard”, Haji said adding it is because of the Britishers that Houseboat is famous world over.

“One General Dunlop, a Britisher Army Officer came to Kashmir in 1870 as a tourist. He was so amused by the beauty of the lake that he used to accumulate his yearly leaves, to remain in valley over a long period. Our grandfathers used to tell us he was a man of principles and was instrumental in changing the lazy attitude of the boat people”, said 69 year old Muhammad Aziz Tuman, whose grandfather Ahmad Tuman used to work with the Britishers. He died at he age of 97 in 1957 (PIC 10)

The Britishers also encouraged many adventure sports in the Valley like hunting and fishing. “ It is a murder, but the general had been happy when my grandfather shot dozens of flying ducks in one shot near Wular lake in Sopore,” he said. In those days, they hunted birds with a 10 feet long gun called Pantgun and general had been all praise for it.

Ahmad Tuman is also said to be the first to learn British cooking. Nobody knew British cooking in 1880 and the Britishers, they say, wanted the boat people to learn cooking themselves. “One day, a lady Britisher selected our grandfather for learning the cooking as he spoke a smattering of English. During the initial course of the training the boy burnt the food and the lady put his hand in the frying pan. After the incident he became a great chef and passed on the art to many others” said Tuman.

Similarly in I948, Arthur Aisenberg, a member of United Nations Organization (UNO), who was also the secretary of the Houseboat association asked Ahmad Tuman to fetch the strawberries from Amira Kadal as he was expecting some guests. “ My grandfather bought the strawberries and handed them over to me. One by one I ate all the strawberries and Ainesberg was very furious. His wife saved me from his wrath and took a photograph of my grandfather to ease up the situation. My Grandfather, who was apologetic for my mistake responded with a smile,” Tuman added

The Britishers also loved swimming, fishing and mountaineering. It is said the Britishers with the help of the boat people explored many places like Pahalgam, Gulmarg and Sonamarg which have now become a famous tourism spots of the world

Once, boat people say, the daughter of Rehman Karnai, a boatman, died due to some illness. After her burial, he began to weep like a woman and did not eat anything. A Britisher ordered him to take him to Shalimar Garden in Shikara. The people, who had assembled for the condolence offered to ferry him to the place, but he insisted Rahman should do the job. This, probably the tourist did to get the bereaved person out of the sorrow.

Decades ago, Bambroo family in the lake used to pronounce the name of a British tourist as Aboot instead of Abert. It is said the Britisher used hunter to make the family pronounce his name correctly.

Copyright and courtesy of Greater Kashmir. com (December 2004)
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